Folding collar



I May 15, 1923.

J. M. VAN HEUSEN FOLDI NG COLLAR Filed Nov. 10, '1921 2 snees-sneet 1 [NV EN TOR.

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J. M. VAN HEUSEN FOLDING COLLAR Filed Nov. 10 1921 I 2 Sheets-Sheef, 2

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JOHN MANNING' VAN HEUSEN, OF JAMAICA PLAIN, MASSACHUSETTS, SSJGNOR TO VAN HEUSIEN PRODUCTS, INC., A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE.

FOLDIHG' COLLAR.

Application filed November 10, 1921. Serial No. 514,165.

To all 'whom it myloancern:

Be it known that I, JOHN MANNING VAN HEUSEN, a citizen of the United States of America, residing at No. 33 Lakeville Place,

Jamaica'Plain, in the county of Sufl'olk,

State of Massachusetts, have' invented certain new and useful Improvements in Foldin Collars; and I do hereby declare the fo lowing to be a full, clear, and exact de- I scription of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to' which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to improvements in collars made of heavy fabric such as mulll tiple ply interwoven fabric and having a weakened fold'v or fold portion of i'ncreased flexibility woven therein. More particulai'ly, it relates to such a fabric which can be woven as a straight fabric, as distin- 2 guished from a curvilinear fabric, but

which may, nevertheless, have a fold portion of a enerally curvilinear shape woven therein. The present invention, accordingly, provides a generally curvilinear fold portion without weaving the .fabric as a whole with a curvilinear weave.

The collar fabric of which the collars of the present invention are made is woven with a series of relatively short, narrow portions of modified weave, which are so arrangedwith respect to each other that, taken together, they form a generally curvilinear portion of the fabric. The number and arrangement of such narrow portions of modified weave may be varied, for example, by Varying the length of such portions or their width, or their arrangement With respect to each other, so that the general curvilinear form produced bya series of such portions may have a greater or less curvature, and so that the curvature may be varied and regulated in accordance with that desired for different collars, for example, for collars of different sizes or different styles.

The collar fabric may be woven in strips of a width equal to or somewhat greater than the vwidth of 'the collar or it may be woven of a width such that a series of collar blanks may beV cut therefrom across its width. In order that a series of collar blanks may be cut from a single piece of the fabric, the portions of modified weave 'modified weave portions are `arranged a maximum number of collar blanks can be cut from a piece of fabric of given size.

In weaving the fabric so that a series of collar blanks may be cut therefrom, the at recurring intervals, spaced apart a sufficient distance to permit the Cutting of the collar blanks with the modified portions at the fold lines thereof. I The invention will be further illustrated 1n connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 shows in perspective a finished collar embodyng the nvention.

Fig. 2 shows the collar unfolded and with the modified weave portions indicated in dotted lines.

Fig. 3 is a sectional view of the collar taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2, and illustrating one form of weave and modified weave vof the fabric.

Fg. 4 is a similar 'View to that of Fig. 3, showing a modified weave.

Fig. 4A is a cross-section of a modification similar to Fig. 4.

Figs. 5,, 6 and 6A are enlarged Views illustrating the weaves and modifiedweavesof the fabrics of Figs. 3 and Fig. 7 shows a narrow fabric from which the collar 'blanks may be cut, with the collar blanks indicated thereon.

Figi. 8 shows a wide fabric of'a width eqlual to that of several collar blanks, and with the collar blanks indicated thereon.

The collar illustrated in Figs. 1 to 3 is 'a one piece folding or turn-down collar made up of the neckband portion 1, and folding or turn-down portion 2, united at the fold line, which is of generally curvilinear shape or contour. The fabric illustrated in Figs. 3 and 5 is 'a two-ply interwoven fabric, woven with the upper and lower plies interwoven by interweave threads indicated at 4, the longitudinal Warp threads of the fabric being indicated at 5, and the transverse or weft threads at 6.

The collar illustrated in Figs. 4 and 6 is made up of three-ply interwoven fabric with the middle ply interwoven respectively with each outer ply, the two sets of interwoven threads 7 and 8 nterweaving the two adjacent plies of the fabric in the manner illustrated. The longitudinal or warp threads are indicated at 9 and the weft threads at 10. Along the fold line of the collar, the fabric is woven with a series of narrow portions somewhat staggered with respect to each other, and which may overlap each other for a portion of their wldths where they come together, but which, taken together, form a generally curvilinear portion at which the collar folds.

The collar fabric from which the collar blanks may be cut is illustrated in Figs. .7 and 8. In weaving the fabric, the loom 1s provided with an extra number of harnesses or heddles to provide for the modificatlon of the weave of the fabric at the different transverse portions thereof, where it 1s desired to modify the weave. For example, in the case of a two-ply interwoven fabric, the heddles which operate the interweave threads may be divided up so that the interweave threads of short portions of the fabric near the middle can be operated or maintained inoperative. In weaving a fabric such as illustrated in Fig. 7. with a series of nine successive narrow portions per collar, two of which are indicated at 12 and 13 of Fig. 7, arranged lengthwise of the fabric in the manner illustrated, it will be seen that there are seven different places across the width of the fabric near its center, where the weave is modified at successive periods in the weaving operation. That is to say, startin from the segment or narrow portion mldway between the collar blanks outlined in Fig. 7, it will be noted that there are seven successive segments to the center or highest point in the` curved fold line, each segment slightly dlsplaced in the same lateral direction with respect to the preceding segments. For example, When the fabric is being woven at the part corresponding tothe modified section 12, the Warp interweave threads for this narrow section may be carried through 'the fabric. lengthwise of the said section 12 as filler threads, leaving the two outer plies of fabric continuous but not interwoven at this portion. When the fabric has been woven to the end of the portion 12, the said warp interweave threads are then operated in the usual way to interweave the two plies of fabric in the same manner in which it is elsewhere interwoven, while the interweave threads corresponding to the next modified weave portion 13, will be thrown out of operation and carried through as filler threads, thus leaving the portion 13 of the fabric on each side disconnected. By regulating the interweave threads which are thrown out of operation in this way, the fabric can be provided with the modified weave at the short narrow portions indicated, and these narrow portions can be arranged in the trated, for example, in

In the case of a widerfabric, such as ili lustrated in F ig. 8, the fabric may be woven in a similar way, with the provision of additlonal heddles for controlling part of the warp threads where it is desired to modify the weave of the fabric. In this case, however, where a series of collar blanks are to be cut from a' single width of fabric, the heddles for the corresponding transverse portlons where the weave is to be modified may be operated simultaneously. The weav- 1ng operat1on otherwise may be generally similar to that above described in the case of a narrow fabric.

It will be noted that in Figs. 6 and 6a a three ply fabric is illustrated, the three plies being integrally bound together by two sets of interweave threads 7 and 8. The mterweave thread '7 binds together the upper and intermediate plies, while the interweave thread 8 binds together the lower andintermediate plies. In weaving the relatively short, narrow portions or segments of modified weave, it will be obvious that the intermediate threads 7 may be run as longitudinal filling threads through the said portion of modified weave, or the interweave thread 8 may be run through the fabric as a longitudinal filler thread at the sald portion, or both of the interweave threads may be run through the said portion as longitudinal filler threads, eg., as illustrated in Fig. .6. It will'thus be possib1e for the outer two lies, for example, to be interwoven while the inner ply and the intermediate ply are left separated, as illus- Fig. 6A, thus providlng the modified weave which is4 desired in this relatively short, narrow portion.

In the foregoing specification and in certam of the appended claims I have used the term modified weave in describing the change in the weave of the collar fabric along the fold portion. By the term modified weave I mean a change or alteration in the weave of the fabric that results in the fold portion having a greater or less degree of flexibility than the main portion of t l1e fabric. That is to say, I do not wish to limit my invention to a collar having a fold portion woven as hereinbefore set forth, the said fold portion having a greater flexibilitv than the main portion of the fabric. w

While I have illustrated and described in the drawings andv specification a two and a three ply fabric having their plies interwoven in a certain manner, I do not limit reaaeea myself to a two or a three Vply fabric or to the particular method f of interweaving shown.7

I claim:

1. A folding or turn-down collar made of a single iece of heavy fabric and having t a natural old portion provided by a series of relatively short, narrow portions of modified weave which are so arranged With respect to each other that, taken together, they form a generally curvilinear fold portion in the collar.

2. A folding or turn-down collar made up of a single piece of multiple ply interwoven fabric, having a natural 'oid portion provided by a series of relatively short, narrow portions of modified weave which are so arranged With respect to eachv otherthat, taken together, they form a generaily curvilinear fold portion in the collar.

3. A folding 'or turn-down collar made of a single piece of multiple ply interwoven abric, having a natural fold portion of increased flexibility provided by a series of relatively short, narrow portions which are so arranged With respect to each other that, taken together, they form a generally curvilinear told portion in the eoi-lar, one or more of the interWea-ve threads, which normaiiy bind the piies together, being run through as filler threads at the said relatively short, narrow portions, ieaving one or more of the plies separate from the re'- maining ly or plies.

4. A foding or turn-down collar made up of a ,neckband portion and a folding or turn-down ortion, the' said tolding or turndown portion being of a heavy fabric possessing' suficient inherent stifi'ness to give Shape to the collar, and having a natural foid portion provided at its'. upper edge by a series of reiatively short, narrow portions of modified weave which are so arranged with respect to each other that, taken together, they form a generally curvilineat` fold portion.

5. A folding or turn-down collar made up of a neckband portion and a folding or turn-down portion, the said folding or turndown portion being of multiple ply interwoven abric and having a'naturai told portion provided at its upper edge by a series of relatively short, narrow portions of modified Weavewhich are so arranged with respect to each other that, taken together, they form a generally curvilinear fold portion.

iin testimony lwhereoit I afiix my signature. i

Jornv Martino VAN rransar', 

